2019: Caravan trip to the Gibb River Road, 5

As expected the 1400 km trip from Broome to Exmouth was easy and relaxing. We did have a bit of excitement when we stopped for coffee about 30 km from Broome to find that the cover on the front window of the van had come open. Luckily it must have only just happened and we were able to fix the brackets before any damage was done.

About 150 km south of Broome we stopped for 4 days at Barn Hill Station, where a large caravan park has been established. We had a shady powered site about 100 m from a steep beach with a sunset viewing platform. The waves made it difficult to swim but that didn’t matter. Park patrons, many of whom come here for 3 to 4 months every year, organise card games, a market, a quirky dice game called left/right/centre that was good fun, a craft circle and even bowling tournaments on a 2-rink concrete green with fake grass. A cafe sells pies, pasties, sausage rolls, cake and delicious vanilla slices. The park is dry and dusty but is great fun for a few days – it’s important though to not use a chair or table or bit of shade that the regulars think they own. We saw an interesting exhibition of horse skills and riding skills by a young station hand and her two quarter horses , worth $35,000 each. One nice feature of BHS was the range of resident birds, butcher birds with their fabulous songs, finches, honey eaters, corellas, black cockatoos and more.

At Barn Hill Station, next to a tiny caravan of the same brand, 35 years old

Jo in Kymberly colours, Barn Hill Station

Sunsets at Barn Hill are always beautiful

Next stop about 200 km further south was 80 Mile Beach, another large park separated from the beach by a sand dune about 5 m high. This park is unusual because it has lots of green grass, the first time we have had such luxury since leaving Renmark. We were allocated a non-powered site only a few metres from the walkway and viewing platform, also the fish cleaning station which we didn’t need but it was interesting to see people returning with their catch. We saw a small python slithering along the ground near the toilets; that gave us something to think about when visiting the toilet at 4 am. No swimming here because the beach is very shallow with sand flats about 200 m wide at low tide. With good sunset views and beach walking, 80 MB was another good stop. The pie night was good too.

Fishing trailer at 80 Mile Beach, check out the sign

Our van, with the green plastic tub, was one of 300 at 80 Mile Beach

We by-passed Port Headland and drove to Indee Station, about a 30 km detour. The station has 3,000 cattle, run by an 80 year old couple, a full time station hand, a volunteer caravan park caretaker and cleaner and others as needed, e.g. a grader operator who was there at the time. 3 mine railways lines run through the property and they probably make as much money from that as from cattle grazing.

At Indee Station, our van at the right

Fortescue River Roadhouse consists of a roadhouse, 200 huts for mine and road workers, a tavern that opens from 6.30 to 10.00 pm for the workers, and a small, dry, dusty but clean caravan park – and butcher birds that sing beautifully all day.

Another detour, this time 80 km each way, took us to Onslow, a nice town on the coast. Two caravan parks are occupied mainly by long term fishing enthusiasts and we were lucky to get the last site in the overflow area. It was a large and shady site and had both power and water so we were happy. This was just a one night stop because we found that we had a night to spare and were pleasantly surprised; 2 pubs, a couple of cafes, a museum, a nice boardwalk around the headland and huge salt works with mountains of salt exported through a deep sea port.

300 km further on we checked into Bullara Station, looking forward to a roast dinner and desert but we missed out because it was fully booked. We had also missed out at Barn Hill and 80 Mile Beach so obviously we are destined to go without a roast. The weather was good, the damper provided to all was the best (we have the recipe now) and company around the campfire was good. We haven’t had many fires on this trip so that made a nice change. While at Bullara we visited Coral Bay for snorkelling, which was very good, right off the beach and also for a visit to the bakery (another one! How can we lose weight?).

A few days ago we arrived at Cape Range National Park, near Exmouth, one of our favourite places. We are at North Kurrajong camp area (site 34 for 2 nights and site 28 for 2 nights, having to change because we didn’t book early enough), just 2 minutes walk from a beautiful beach. We have seen lots of whales a few hundred metres away on the outside of Ningaloo Reef and 4 dolphins about 100ms from us. The reef fringes WA for hundreds of km and is quite spectacular. We have snorkelled with fish, rays and turtles and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. It has been quite windy but the temperature has been about 30 deg and the afternoons/evenings have been calm. The camp area has only 9 sites so it is quiet, no power or water but there are 3 shared long drop toilets. We have visited other beaches for snorkelling and sightseeing, all within 25 km; an amazing place.

Happy Hour takes 2 hours at Cape Range National Park

We will leave in a couple of days to drive steadily back to Adelaide, arriving about 16 August. Not looking forward to the cold weather but it will be good to back home again.

Love to all. Keep healthy and safe. From Ted and Jo

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