We cruised overnight to the mouth of the Sepic River, waited at the entrance until daybreak then began our approximately 150 km trip up the Sepic. This amazing river is one of the greatest wild rivers on earth, remaining virtually as it has been for thousands of years. The valley is wide and flat, 1100 km long and meandering along in huge sweeping bends. Today the water is about 20m deep water along our route but sometimes it floods to several metres deeper. Even now the flood plain has dozens of large deep lakes and many tributaries so during flood it must be incredible.

Thousands of people live in remote villages. Their subsistence lifestyle is based on fishing and gardening, growing such crops as yams, taro, corn, bananas, water melon and sago. Fish are still plentiful and the land hasn’t been over cropped so there is no reason that it can’t survive for a long time yet. Sepic people believe that they are related to crocodiles and their special relationship with the River is obvious.

These were amongst the first to meet us when we entered the Sepic

Then hundreds met us along the way, hoping for us to kick balls to them, which they gathered enthusiastically

Our visit created much excitement, 25 canoes at this village, just one of many

We took 2 trips in the tenders, firstly to Angoram for artifact shopping.

Sepic artefacts are magnificent, this one for $1500; we didn’t buy it.

I came here 50 years ago and things don’t appear to have changed much. The most obvious changes since 1969 are a phone tower that would be used mainly by government officials and now there are more people speaking English, although still not many. Pigin is of course the prevalent language so I had lots of fun trying out my Pigin skills.

The next trip was through a long, deep creek/channel with villages dotted along the banks. Kids and adults alike sang out to us, partly to say Hi but also to either sell us produce, e.g. tiny live crocodiles or water melons, or to ask for mosquito nets or clothing that they knew we would have.

They weren’t all trying to sell something

True North visits the Sepic 3 or 4 times each year and the villagers know that the crew bring gifts. The gifts are gratefully received and often people give us water melons or flowers in return. Next stop was at a stilt village comprised of 30 or 40 houses built high above the lake on wooden posts, presumably above flood level. The Government provided land for these people a few years ago so that they could have more stable living conditions but within a few months they had all moved back to the lake. They paddle their boats for a couple of hours to tend their gardens and raise pigs in their stilt houses. They also farm crocodiles and can make quite good money from that. Although they are poor they seem to be quite content.

A warm welcome at the stilt village

A neighbourhood chat at the stilt village

Today’s trips on the Sepic certainly gave us plenty to think and talk about back on the True North for the night.

Perhaps last night’s party was not such a good idea after all

Before dawn on day 8 we arrived a Karkar Island, another volcanic island occupied by traditional people and a large copra and cocoa plantation owned for 100 years by the Middleton family. This family has been long time friends with the family of the PNG e pert that we have traveling with us for the whole cruise, by the name off Simon Tewson. Simon was born in Australia, raised in PNG and for most of his life has been involved in tourism and mining all over the country. His knowledge is immense and he is a good story teller so we have been able to learn lots more than we would have without him. His relationship with the Middleton family is the main reason we are at Karkar.

This morning the weather was cloudy and we couldn’t see the top of the mountain so the chopper flights were postponed. We tried snorkeling in a few spots but it wasn’t as good as previous places. In fact I spent much of the snorkeling time either swimming or talking to local kids who came to visit in their canoes.

This afternoon we visited the working copra and cocoa plantation on the island.

Laundry duties, PNG style

It was surprising to see such a labor intensive process, employing 1500 people. Of course it could be done more efficiently but employment is the main reason the PNG government allows the foreign owned plantation to continue. After the plantation tour I again chatted with locals, mainly with the cook and cleaner who work for the “missus” but also with lots of children. Here are a few of the friendly kids we met.

Back on board, at happy hour I gave a slideshow presentation to the guests and a few of the crew. I had been asked to do that by several guests so I got one of the crew to help me convert some of my photos from an 11 year old Word document, then added a couple of maps and recent Isurava photos. Everyone seemed pleased so I was happy.

Eight hours of overnight cruise brought us to cruise day 7 at Sakar Island, inhabited by 700 people, all living in one village. Typically in the islands village councillors have taken over the role of “chief” and somebody nominated by the councillor, or the councillor himself will board visiting vessels to control activities. They don’t want us anchoring, fishing, diving and snorkeling just anywhere. They also usually don’t allow visitors to fish with sinkers and often won’t allow spear fishing. We are not allowed to catch turtles, dugongs, sea cucumbers and other of their favourite foods. The councillors on Sakar also kept a tally of snorkelors, divers and fish caught so that we could pay a fee for us to use their assets. These sensible rules appear to be partly about reef and species preservation and partly about maintaining control over their territory.

Sakar Is. is actually a dormant volcano which last erupted about 1880. Much of the island is very fertile volcanic soil but on some of the steep slopes landslides have stripped away the top soil, leaving almost bare rock. It is interesting to see jungle covering 75% of the island beside large areas where grass can exist on the slopes but not trees or gardens.

Early morning at the volcanic Sakar Island

An early morning flight took us up to the top of the volcano and into the caldera with it’s lake.

The lake in the caldera, at the top of the volcano

On the way back to True North we saw a huge pod of spinner dolphins, perhaps 100 of them, a large shark and a manta ray.

Later in the morning a dozen or so youths swam about 400 from the fringing reef to join others with their canoes at the rear of True North. They wanted to come on board but the village councillor and his assistant kept them under control. Their water skills are amazing, not surprisingly because the water is both their work place and play ground.

The group in the middle are balancing on an upturned canoe

We went ashore for an hour or so, visiting the gardening area beside the beach where the local farmer grows coconuts, betel nuts, bread fruit, cocoa and yams. This was a good opportunity for a beach swim.

A great time at the beach

The afternoon was for snorkeling again, this time in a trench or almost a lagoon, where again we marveled at the varieties of coral and fish, including a large turtle and a reef shark.

Colourful underwater creatures

And fun above the water

Then it was party time. True North carries lots of old clothing for fancy dress and, helped by cocktails we all soon got into party mode. There were some crazy outfits. Jo went in a red petticoat and I had on a short cheer leaders skirt with black bra.

Easy to party

By 9 pm a few of us were siting in the fresh air at the bow for an hour or so, while we cruised to our next island, with the party still going until about midnight.

On cruise day 6 we arrived at the Arawe Islands, at the south western end of New Britain. After a rocky night and traveling it was nice in a fairly calm bay.

The day stared with an early morning helicopter flight that was supposed to be for an hour but cloud cover prevented us from going where the pilot had intended so it was shortened to 30 minutes. We didn’t mind as the scenery was still interesting; we even saw a whale.

A tropical paradise

During the morning snorkeling trip the coral was a little different in that there was much more soft coral than we had seen in other places. There we still lots of fish and even a sea snake about 2 m long. The highlight of this trip was visit by about 8 local kids and adults on their outrigger canoes while we were in the water. While most continued snorkeling I talked to the kids from the water. They seemed to enjoy my attempted pigin discussion; well they laughed a lot so I think they enjoyed it.

Having fun with local kids

We spent a couple of hours in the village on the nearby island where we were made unbelievably welcome. The whole village, or so it seemed, met us on the beach with much frivolity, welcome dancing and impromptu singing. They didn’t know we were coming until we arrived almost on their door step at dawn the festivities were unplanned.

We found ourselves surrounded by hundreds of children and adults, many of whom could speak quite good English and were keen practice as much as possible. Girls and women adopted Jo and a separate, smaller, group took me under their wing.

Chatting with locals during an impromptu village tour

They showed us their school and church as we walked around the village.

Proud students showing us their classroom

Spontaneous singing happened all over the place; obviously singing is a big part of their life.

Eventually they walked us back to the beach and onto our boats.

Walking down hill on a slippery track – with eager helpers

Some of Ted’s guides during the village tour

It was a wonderful experience and just the kind of experience that I have told Jo about and was so keen to share with her.

It was sad to leave the villagers, even if it meant that we could enjoy a hot shower, lovely meal in air conditioned comfort and a soft bed in our own cabin.

On cruise day 5, having traveled for only 4 hours last night, we arrived at the Lusancay Islands. These islands are mainly coral atolls and only a few are inhabited. We awoke to see that we were at anchor beside a beautiful uninhabited sand and coral island, with palm tress and some undergrowth, surrounded by coral reef.

We dream about tropical islands like this

Today was a fairly relaxing day, with 3 snorkeling tours for Ted and a beach visit for Jo. During the snorkeling trip we saw less interesting coral than in previous excursions because it was mainly grey, almost appearing to be dead. It can’t have been dead though because the fish life was just stunning, much better than we had seen in other locations. We saw every imaginable colour of fish ranging from tiny finger nail size to large reef sharks. There were also large fish such as barracuda , grouper and cod and also a turtle.

While we were snorkeling the scuba divers were enjoying the same success. They have dived twice a day since the cruise began and apparently every dive has been great. One guy went spear fishing and came back with a huge coral trout. People have been fishing every day, usually trawling from the tend boats and sometimes twice a day. For the first couple of days they caught nothing – since then they have caught several including trevally, coral trout and barracuda. Once they have caught enough for our meals they catch and release and they say they have a had a great time. The chefs have produced nice meals from the catch of the day, including sashimi so we have been very lucky.

Late in the afternoon we all went ashore for a swim and sunset drinks.

Sunset drinks on a tropical island

A few local people had sailed over from an island about 20 km away on their seemingly flimsy but apparently very sturdy outrigger sailing canoes. They are returning to their island tonight, navigating by stars or, if the cloud remains heavy, by wind. If the wind is in the wrong direction they will paddle for 10 hours to get home.

Another great day, as we have come to expect.

It’s cruise day 3 and the helicopter trip to Isurava was just as good as we had hoped. Starting at 5:30 after a light breakfast was tricky but worthwhile. The weather was clear at Tufi and for the first ½ hour we could easily see for long distances – at first the “fjords” to Tufi which are not really fjords but long narrow inlets created between ridges of lava flow from centuries ago; then wide tidal rivers and huge swamps. We saw one crocodile lazing around in a slow moving river. Soon we saw steep, 4,000 m high mountains, fast flowing rivers, steep gorges and lots of low cloud.

The Owen Stanley Ranges are steep, with deep gorges and fast flowing rivers

Flying in PNG can be difficult, especially in fog or rain – and we had both

The pilot tried several routes to Isurava and was about to give up and return to True North when he suddenly saw a gap in the clouds and we were able to go up the valley to Isurava.

Approaching Isurava War Memorial, on the Kokoda Track, perched on the edge of a mountain

Being there was special because we had waited a long time to get there. I walked the on the Kokoda Track about 6 to 8 times in 1968/69 and did the whole 96 km walk twice while stationed here in the army. I have always said to Jo that one day I’ll show her beautiful PNG. Then in 2008 I walked the Track with Bevan and one of our nephews and at that time I told Jo about the amazing scenery and the wonderful local people that we met along the way. So when we landed at Isurava it was very special, even bringing tears.

Courage, Endurance, Mateship, Sacrifice; carved in granite pillars at Isurava

Being at Isurava is very emotional, never to be forgotten

At last Jo has been able to walk on the Kokoda Track

Our visit was cut short because we had taken extra time finding our way through the weather to get here, but we didn’t mind. It was as though we had fulfilled a dream to be here. The trip back to the True North was difficult for the pilot. We had to fly low along a narrow gorge in the rain and with cloud all around us, so low that at one stage we saw birds above us in the trees on the gorge sides. Unfortunately only 2 of the 4 flights were able to get away from True North because of rain in the mountains.

Back on the coast the local villagers put on a welcome performance and a demonstration of manufacturing processes, such as fishing nets, thatched roofs, reed walls, baskets, fire lighting and even face tattooing. It was all very interesting and they chatted willingly with us before we returned to the True North.

A painted warrior warning us not to approach the village

This was the second row of defence agains intruders

Traditional costumes; each person makes their own headdress and they are very proud of their work

Jo went on land to visit a butterfly sanctuary which was very nice while I went on another spectacular snorkel trip. The coral and fish were beautiful. Later in the afternoon we went on what the crew called a “raft-up” which involved all the guests and about 8 crew riding to the top of the fjord in 5 tinnies then having drinks and nibbles while the boats were tied together.

A raft-up at Tufi

We saw lots of local birds, mainly parrots, and several local people visited us in their canoes, then a group of 6 local musicians were brought to us in the 6th tinny. It was a very pleasant session, even if it meant having to drink wine and beer earlier that we would normally have.

Curious locals who came visiting during the raft-up

True North at anchor, sunset at Tufi

Dinner at night was as again very nice and we all felt very satisfied after another great day.

This morning we awoke at anchor beside the biggest of the beautiful Trobriand Islands. For almost 50 years I have told Jo of the friendly people here so we were really looking forward to our day here. At 7:00 am we set off in the chopper for a short sightseeing flight then landed at a village where met the paramount chief of the islands. Again the villagers were very welcoming and one guy who Jo chatted to for 10 minutes gave her a carved mask in appreciation of her friendship.

Later in the morning I enjoyed a 700m swim in 27 deg, 135m deep water to the beach where I joined the shore excursion around the local village. We received a colourful dance ceremony performed by scantily clad young men and women then had an hour to shop at about 50 small stall selling hand carved goods.

Welcome to the Trobriand Islands

The array of goods included bowls, tables, walking sticks, shields, face masks, and many small ornamental items. Of course we bought a few.

A small girl and her Mum selling craft goods

For the afternoon shore excursion I paddled a SUP to the beach and was met by a large group of young children and teenagers who were waiting on the beach when they saw me coming. For the next 1 ½ hours most of our group participated in a game of traditional cricket, which is based on English cricket but has been modified significantly and is used as entertainment and a means of dispute settlement throughout the “Trobes”. It was great fun for all with the locals enjoying it as much as the visitors. While that was going on I spent about an hour giving SUP rides to the kids, who adapted very easily to the SUP because of their canoeing experience. Great fun for all.

Then back on board it was interesting to see a slide show of the snorkeling trips over the past few days, especially to see the colours and variety of fish and coral. I’ll try to get a copy. Before we knew it another great dinner was served and then it was time for bed before 9 pm.

Cruise Day 2 has been a great day in the Ferguson Islands. Straight after breakfast we took a one-hour helicopter ride on True North’s its own chopper, a seven seater with the pilot and 2 passengers in front and 4 passengers in the rear. Everyone gets a good view so it doesn’t really matter where you sit. We flew along river valleys, into gorges, over mountains, mainly dormant volcanoes but some still venting sulphurous gases, along beautiful palm tree lined coastlines, over coral reefs and lots of subsistence farms on both flat land and steep mountain slopes. It was a spectacular flight and the scenery was stunning.

Mountain scenery from the chopper

One of many islands in the Ferguson group

After breakfast Jo and I enjoyed a 30 minute chat with a local guide and his 3 year old son before the 10:30 start for a jungle walk. We took 3 tenders to the beach where we were met by about 30 young kids, teenagers and adults who smiled happily to meet us. They accompanied us through their village, some practising their English, some too shy and all enjoying the experience of seeing such strange looking people as us. Almost as soon as we started walking rain started. We crossed the nearby creek a few times, then walked in it as the rain became heavier.

A creek crossing, PNG style

2 guys, 2 umbrellas, 1 bush knife – that’s all a girl needs

Local adults and children helped those who were not sure footed, even offering us palm leaves to use as umbrellas. We scrambled over rocks and along slippery muddy tracks until we came to quite a fast flowing water fall about 50 to 70 metres tall. Some passengers showered under the water but we just enjoyed trying to talk to the kids. Rain continued for the 40 minute walk back to the village so we were absolutely soaked by the time we caught the tenders back to the True North.

Oops! Look what happens to white shirts and light hair when rains falls on your pink cap.

True North staff keep us very busy and this afternoon some chose fishing while I chose snorkeling. Jo chose the chat-on-board option.

Embarking on a snorkeling tour, Ted in red

The snorkeling was the best I have ever experienced; a 10 minute boat ride then an hour in the water. We had a dive master and 3 swimmers so we had a real personal snorkeling experience. The reef was generally 2 to 5 metres deep with a very deep drop-off along the side of the reef. There were many different kinds of coral with brown, green, blue and purple colours everywhere. The sky was cloudy and we could only wonder how good the coral must look in sunshine. There were small fish of every colour and shape but not many big fish. During the swim 4 local kids came out about 400 m from the beach in 2 small dugout canoes to interact with us. They couldn’t speak English and we couldn’t speak their language but is was interesting to see them and they were interested to see us – these strange beings with coloured skulls, face masks, breathing pipes poking out from our heads and long rubber feet. The kids were only about 3 to 6 years old. Snorkeling photos will have to wait until we get a copy of the dive master’s photos.

Back on board we watched a 90 minute video on the Kokoda Track, a very moving film about the Kokoda campaign during World War 2. Suddenly it was dinner time, another delicious meal, giving us the opportunity to compare stories about the day’s activities. Just before bed we heard that the weather forecast for tomorrow is not looking good, which is a pity because tomorrow is the day for us to fly to Isurava Memorial on the Kokoda Track. We are scheduled for a 5:30 am flight so we decide on an early night.

Yay! We are on our way again, this time to Papua New Guinea, cruising on the True North.

I, Ted, first visited PNG in 1968/69 when I was posted there during National Service (more about that later) and for almost 50 years I have wanted Jo to be able to experience this wonderful country. Of course I am very excited and I am thrilled that, at last Jo has decided to come with me. Jo is less excited because she is a little nervous about doing a small boat cruise, especially as she has had back and hip problems and there is no lift to travel between the boat’s 3 levels and she is not as keen on water activities as I am – but she is happy to do it because she knows how much it means to me. I just hope she enjoys it.

We started with a 3 am wake up call before a flight to Melbourne for a second flight to Cairns. We met another Adelaide couple on the first flight and a Melbourne couple on the second flight who are booked on the same cruise.

True North have a scheduled cruise that they call Sepic Soirée South and this particular cruise has been fully booked by a travel company called Latitude 33, who have added some extras for only a small additional price. Instead of flying into Cairns to immediately start the cruise Latitude 33 have booked us into the Niramaya Resort in Port Douglas for 2 nights. The resort is quite luxurious, with large villas, each with large breezeways, tropical style open lounge and bedrooms and its own plunge pool in a lush garden setting – very nice. Complimentary dinner and breakfast were scrumptious. There are 36 passengers from all over Australia and we enjoyed the chance to meet and get to know the others. We were able to spend a few hours with friends from Cairns during the spare day.

After another early start a coach took us to Cairns airport where we were met with True North staff for the beginning of our cruise. Instead of boarding a boat we boarded a plane for a 1 ½ flight to Alotau on the south eastern end of PNG where we were greeted by a small group of islanders playing drums, singing and dancing. It was a nice gesture and many of the staff had not seen that before.

Trobriand Islands dancers welcoming us to Papua New Guinea

A ½ hour later we boarded True North for welcome drinks, followed by lunch and more drinks, then a safety briefing, a tour briefing, a snorkeling briefing and a helicopter briefing – we are all briefed out. Then, as the sun was setting, it was time for drinks and dinner. Drinks with meals are included in the fare so we could enjoy “free” drinks with dinner.

Today was Jo’s birthday and the crew made her feel quite special all day. She had hugs on arrival and all day from most of the crew. There was a delicious birthday cake served as desert for everyone.

On board True North; Happy Birthday Jo

Following the meal we registered for tomorrow’s activities then hit the beds, all agreeing that we were exhausted.