It’s cruise day 3 and the helicopter trip to Isurava was just as good as we had hoped. Starting at 5:30 after a light breakfast was tricky but worthwhile. The weather was clear at Tufi and for the first ½ hour we could easily see for long distances – at first the “fjords” to Tufi which are not really fjords but long narrow inlets created between ridges of lava flow from centuries ago; then wide tidal rivers and huge swamps. We saw one crocodile lazing around in a slow moving river. Soon we saw steep, 4,000 m high mountains, fast flowing rivers, steep gorges and lots of low cloud.
The Owen Stanley Ranges are steep, with deep gorges and fast flowing rivers
Flying in PNG can be difficult, especially in fog or rain – and we had both
The pilot tried several routes to Isurava and was about to give up and return to True North when he suddenly saw a gap in the clouds and we were able to go up the valley to Isurava.
Approaching Isurava War Memorial, on the Kokoda Track, perched on the edge of a mountain
Being there was special because we had waited a long time to get there. I walked the on the Kokoda Track about 6 to 8 times in 1968/69 and did the whole 96 km walk twice while stationed here in the army. I have always said to Jo that one day I’ll show her beautiful PNG. Then in 2008 I walked the Track with Bevan and one of our nephews and at that time I told Jo about the amazing scenery and the wonderful local people that we met along the way. So when we landed at Isurava it was very special, even bringing tears.
Courage, Endurance, Mateship, Sacrifice; carved in granite pillars at Isurava
Being at Isurava is very emotional, never to be forgotten
At last Jo has been able to walk on the Kokoda Track
Our visit was cut short because we had taken extra time finding our way through the weather to get here, but we didn’t mind. It was as though we had fulfilled a dream to be here. The trip back to the True North was difficult for the pilot. We had to fly low along a narrow gorge in the rain and with cloud all around us, so low that at one stage we saw birds above us in the trees on the gorge sides. Unfortunately only 2 of the 4 flights were able to get away from True North because of rain in the mountains.
Back on the coast the local villagers put on a welcome performance and a demonstration of manufacturing processes, such as fishing nets, thatched roofs, reed walls, baskets, fire lighting and even face tattooing. It was all very interesting and they chatted willingly with us before we returned to the True North.
A painted warrior warning us not to approach the village
This was the second row of defence agains intruders
Traditional costumes; each person makes their own headdress and they are very proud of their work
Jo went on land to visit a butterfly sanctuary which was very nice while I went on another spectacular snorkel trip. The coral and fish were beautiful. Later in the afternoon we went on what the crew called a “raft-up” which involved all the guests and about 8 crew riding to the top of the fjord in 5 tinnies then having drinks and nibbles while the boats were tied together.
A raft-up at Tufi
We saw lots of local birds, mainly parrots, and several local people visited us in their canoes, then a group of 6 local musicians were brought to us in the 6th tinny. It was a very pleasant session, even if it meant having to drink wine and beer earlier that we would normally have.
Curious locals who came visiting during the raft-up
True North at anchor, sunset at Tufi
Dinner at night was as again very nice and we all felt very satisfied after another great day.
Ted and Jo 